Colin Smith of Photoshop Café recently described how to edit and color grade video in Photoshop CC.
The steps on color grading were new to me, but it turns out I had posted two articles sometime ago on how to edit video using ACR in Photoshop.
The first one was in 2014. I am not sure where I leaned how to do this, but it could have been from Colin Smith. Here is its link:
I revisited the subject in December 2016. This time my before and after comparison was better. Here is the link to this one.
In the Colin Smith’s recent video, he goes on to how to use ACR to color grade a video, and give it a cinematic effect with is popular. Personally, I do not like the look for most of my videos.
By the way, I find that Photoshop renders the video much more slowly than say Premiere Elements 2019, at least on my PC. But I can live with that, because I am much more comfortable using the sliders of the ACR.
After all this time, I am curious to see if others use this technique to edit their videos.
And finally, there are a lot of other things you can do to enhance your videos using Photoshop CC, like trimming, and adding transitions.
Until next time…
Back in February, I posted an article how I use Okolo.com to display a panosphere. Okolo stitches the uploaded images into a 360-degree panorama or panosphere. In this post, I expand a bit on the earlier one. Okolo does not accept RAW images, which I prefer to take when using its panorama shooting modes. It only accepts JPEG images, and they can only be 5 Mb in size. So other software must be used to edit the RAW images, and then convert and resize them.
This post illustrates my workflow for preparing the 34 RAW images my DJI Mavic Pro takes using Photoshop CC. It goes no to outline the steps to upload them to Okolo.com to create and display the panosphere. I have detailed the steps in the PDF file that is linked below.
The workflow I describe here uses PS CC Action that does the necessary steps to convert and resize each image automatically. It is a simple action, and for the purposes of this post, I have not covered how to write it.
Finally, this can also be done in Photoshop Elements. I will probably write another post soon to better illustrate how to do it with the capabilities that are in Elements. Stay tuned.
If you found this tutorial to be helpful, please star-rate and Like it. And of course, any and all comments are welcome.
From time to time, I like to point out a tutorial written by someone else that I personally found to be helpful. This is one of those times.
Colin Smith of Photoshop Café has written may tutorials, as well as produced a large number of videos on both Photoshop and flying drones. They are all quite good. In this video tutorial, he provides a thorough review of Curves in Photoshop. You may find it useful as simply a review, but I bet you will learn something you did not know or have long since forgotten. I know I did.
Until next time.
In this post, I want to highlight a technique to selectively adjust color in your images. There are many ways to do this. This technique does require using Photoshop CC or an earlier version of the program. Photoshop Elements does not have the command, Selective Color, that this technique uses.
I learned about this technique from a video tutorial by Blake Rudis of F.64 Academy. The link to the video is shown below. He also provides free Actions that automate using the technique on three different style of photos.
In Photoshop Elements, the closest you can come to the Selective Color command, is using the Hue/Saturation command, and selecting individual color channels, rather than just using the Master Channel. But as Rudis points out in the video, this is not the same as the Selective Color approach.
Additionally, the technique can be used to provide subtle changes, as well as more pronounced changes to a photo, as is illustrated in the comparison below. It is normally applied after the primary adjustments to brightness, contrast, and color have been applied to the image.
So, if you have Photoshop, give this technique a try, let me know what you think, and post a link to your image here.
Until next time…
On a recent cruise, I took dozens of sunsets. Most of them were not what I was looking for. I either ended up with a blown out sun, or the picture was too dark for my liking.
Today, I received an email from Steve Arnold of Post Processing Mastery that should a very easy technique to tone down an over exposed sun. Although he explains how to do it using Photoshop, it is well in the capabilities of Photoshop Elements.
Below shows the results I obtained on one of my sunset images.
The Before is on the right, and the After is on the left. Some sunset images will respond better than others to this technique. And remember, you can tweak the result by adjusting the brush layer’s Opacity.
Here is the link to the video that explains the technique.
Until next time.
The subject of resizing your photographs to make a high quality print or to share it online continues to be question that comes up in forums. Part of the confusion stems from the terminology itself. In this post/post, I will discuss the subject from the standpoint of scanning a negative or slide. First, Are a couple of comments about the terminology.
Resolution – Dots Per Inch
Resolution is generally referred to as either dots per inch (dpi) or pixels per inch (ppi). What can lead to confusion is that dpi is used to describe the resolution of a scanner. For example, a scanner that is capable of scanning 35 mm negatives may have a optical resolution of 3200 dpi or greater. The word optical here means there are no mathematics being used to artificially increase the resolution. For the best quality, you should scan at or below the optical resolution of the scanner.
Resolution – Pixels Per Inch
Referring to a scanned image, once you open the image in say, Photoshop Elements or Photoshop, the terminology changes. Now the same resolution is measured in and referred to pixels per inch (ppi). The resolution is the same as you scanned, the term just changes. For example, if a negative is scanned at 3200 dpi and then opened in PSE 15 using the Image > Resize > Image Size command, the dialog below is opened. The resolution of 3200 ppi is shown.
Print Resolution – Dots per Inch
When describing the resolution of an inkjet printer, dots per inch or dpi is again used. However, at this point in the process, the term takes on a whole new and more literal meaning. Now it is used to describe how many drops of ink are placed on the paper per inch. It is one of the prime, but not only parameter that is used to describe how well the printer can reproduce the image. And, this number has nothing to do with the resolution of the image file (in pixels per inch) that was sent to the printer.
This tutorial is an exercise that will not only give you a better understanding of rescaling an image versus re-sampling it, but will also demonstrate the loss of quality that is a bi-product of up-sampling an image, or adding to the number of pixels that were not in the image when it was scanned.
To view or download the tutorial, click on the image below. I suggest you actually follow along with the tutorial using one of your own images.
In this post and tutorial I have focused on resolution as it impacts the printing of your digital photographs. In a future post, I will cover the topic of how to properly size your photos for sharing them online.
If you found this tutorial to be helpful and would like to see other tutorials in the future, please give it a suitable star-rating and share it with your friends.
Until next time..