Yesterday, Adobe held their usual annual event in Las Vegas, Adobe Max where generally they make product announcements. During the event, they announced major upgrades to Lightroom and Photoshop CC. This comes after announcing Photoshop Elements 2018 and Premiere Elements 2018 a couple of weeks ago.
The big news yesterday was the renaming of Lightroom, to be called Lightroom Classic CC, and a new cloud-based version called Lightroom CC. I have been beta testing these two programs for the last several months.
As you may know already, photography websites and group forums are filled with the news and information about the new features added to all three programs. Normally, my blog posts concentrate on my personal observations and tips. However, there has been so many quality articles published yesterday, I am going to concentrate on providing links to three I found very helpful, which were written by the real experts. There are many more out there, and I am sure many more will be coming in the weeks and months ahead. This is a very exciting time for Photoshop CC and Lightroom users.
This article does a good job explaining the name changes and new versions of Lightroom. It is by Victoria Bampton, who is a well known expert and author of books dealing with Lightroom.
Likewise, Laura Shoe is another Lightroom expert who has written several books and authored courses. In her web post linked below, she also covers the pricing for the programs.
Colin Smith, of Photoshop Café, is both a Lightroom and Photoshop expert who writes extensively and has multiple videos describing how to use these programs. I have several of his videos. He also flies a drone, and has produced several videos on using it to create great photos and videos. I have taken advantages of these to improve my own drone photography. Here he explains the new features added to Photoshop CC, and Lightroom.
As you know my prime digital photography activity is with using Photoshop Elements and Premiere Elements. However, I do use Photoshop CC and Lightroom. I am getting closer to adapting my basic workflow and software to theses latter programs. yesterday’s announcements are moving me closer to that. How about you?
Look for more coverage on both Lightroom and Photoshop in the future.
Until next time.
In this post, I want to highlight a technique to selectively adjust color in your images. There are many ways to do this. This technique does require using Photoshop CC or an earlier version of the program. Photoshop Elements does not have the command, Selective Color, that this technique uses.
I learned about this technique from a video tutorial by Blake Rudis of F.64 Academy. The link to the video is shown below. He also provides free Actions that automate using the technique on three different style of photos.
In Photoshop Elements, the closest you can come to the Selective Color command, is using the Hue/Saturation command, and selecting individual color channels, rather than just using the Master Channel. But as Rudis points out in the video, this is not the same as the Selective Color approach.
Additionally, the technique can be used to provide subtle changes, as well as more pronounced changes to a photo, as is illustrated in the comparison below. It is normally applied after the primary adjustments to brightness, contrast, and color have been applied to the image.
So, if you have Photoshop, give this technique a try, let me know what you think, and post a link to your image here.
Until next time…
On a recent cruise, I took dozens of sunsets. Most of them were not what I was looking for. I either ended up with a blown out sun, or the picture was too dark for my liking.
Today, I received an email from Steve Arnold of Post Processing Mastery that should a very easy technique to tone down an over exposed sun. Although he explains how to do it using Photoshop, it is well in the capabilities of Photoshop Elements.
Below shows the results I obtained on one of my sunset images.
The Before is on the right, and the After is on the left. Some sunset images will respond better than others to this technique. And remember, you can tweak the result by adjusting the brush layer’s Opacity.
Here is the link to the video that explains the technique.
Until next time.
Your post production workflow – the steps you take after uploading your photos to your computer – is always a topic that is worth reviewing from time to time. As the technology, software, and your knowledge change, you will probably find that your workflow also changes.
About a year and a half ago, I posted an article that summarized my workflow. Looking back it, there are a few things that I have changed. In this post, I will describe the current steps I generally do. To see that article, CLICK HERE.
In this post, I describe what the basic steps are after I have uploaded my images to Photoshop Elements 14.
Here is my current workflow that uses both the PSE 14 Organizer and its Photo Editor, with Photoshop CC added to the mix when needed. The description begins as soon as I have imported photos and videos into the PSE 14 Organizer.
- The first thing I do is tag my photos. If the subject matter is pretty fixed, this step takes only seconds.
- For example, on a typical weekend of watching my granddaughters’ softball and soccer games, I may find that come Sunday evening I have 500 images and several videos on my memory card. I already have the tag structure and tags defined. It’s just a matter of selecting the right images and dragging them over to the appropriate tags.
- If the input batch is from a trip or similar event or photo shoot, I will at least tag the images at the Category level, and then come back later to sub-divide them into Sub-Categories, and Keyword Tags.
- I use Events, Places, and to a much lesser extent People views – the tabs at the top of the screen.
3. I next screen the images using the Full Screen View option (F11) in the Organizer.
I skip over any videos I have imported at this point.To cull out the best photos I use the Organizer’s Star Rating feature using:
1 = Delete
2 = Needs work, or is member of a burst, HDR, or panorama sequence.
3 = These will most likely be included into an Album for a slide show, or DVD I plan to make at some point. They may not always be the best photos in the world from a technical standpoint, but are needed to better tell the story. I will also give the best photo of a sequence 3 stars.
4 = These are pretty good for me, and probably are the ones that I will most likely end up printing.
5 = Rarely awarded at this stage
After Step 3, I still have many images that have not been rated. They will remain in my Catalog.
4. I now screen the video clips that were uploaded in the grid view. I double-click on the video file and play the video in the enlarged window that appears, rather than in the full screen mode.
5. If I am interested in the location where the photos were taken, I will then use Places view to pin point on the map the photos and videos were taken.
My current camera can embed the GPS data into the image files, so while taking the photos I turn this feature on for at least a couple of shots. I do not leave it on all of the time, because it drains the battery significantly.
If I forget to do it, I will take a couple of shots with my iPhone, and use these photos to identify the location using Places.
If need be, like when I have shot only video, I will manually add the location of the photos using the Places view.
6. At this point, I have finished the vast majority of my keyword tagging of my images. I then write the Keyword Tags and other metadata to the image files – File > Save Metadata to Files. If you do not do this, only those images that have been at least opened in the Editor will have the tagging and other metadata written to the file itself.
7. I then delete all of the 1 star images/videos from the Catalog, as well as the hard drive.
8. Next comes editing those photos and videos that are either in a sequence (2 Stars) and those that have 3 or 4 Stars.
Since I shoot RAW, I will naturally do my initial editing using the ACR.
Normally, that is all the editing I need to do. I fact, that is my goal, for individual photos.
If I can do that, I do not need to save an edited version. My changes are recorded in a small .xmp file.
9. To print the photo or make editing changes requiring, for example selections or layers, I will open the image in Elements’ Photo Editor.
Occasionally, I will send the RAW image directly to Photoshop CC’s ACR to take advantage of its added tools and/or Photoshop CC itself. However, this will require that a dupe (actually a Version Set) of the RAW file to be generated, which will take up additional disk drive space.
10. The final step of my basic workflow is to periodically do either a Full Backup or Incremental Backup of my Catalog and all of the media it contains (File > Backup Catalog).
This pretty much summarizes my basic workflow. Generally, after Step 9, I put together my photo projects, whatever they may be.
I would love to hear your thoughts and workflow steps that you use or in PSE or other programs.
You may have seen this announcement elsewhere, but just in case you haven’t, Google is providing the complete Nik Collection of plug-ins as a free download.
For those of you not familiar with the Nik Collection, it is a suite of several plug-ins that integrate with Photoshop, Photoshop Elements, and Lightroom that adds a variety of effects and advanced settings for enhancing your images.
These tools include:
- Color Efex Pro
- Analog Efex Pro
- Silver Efex Pro
- HDR Efex Pro
- Sharpener Pro
You can find out much more about the plug-ins and download the complete suite from the link below.
You really should take advantage of this opportunity. Up until this announcement, the software package sold for about $150, and was one of the most popular packages of its kind.
I will have more to say about the Nik Collection in future posts.
The figure below demonstrates the power of the Photoshop CC (2015) Shake Reduction filter. The photo was taken out of a side window ftom a car travelling at freeway speeds. Obviously the trees in the foreground were blurry, but also the mountains in the background were also blurred.
I processed the photo using the default filter settings after repositioning the focus point slightly. The focus point was positioned so it only used the mountains. Doing this did significantly blur and make ghost images on the trees in the foreground. I then masked these out.
From this one, quickly produced example, it is obvious to me that this filter will be a very useful tool.