My Basic Photo Workflow Revisited


Your post production workflow – the steps you take after uploading your photos to your computer – is always a topic that is worth reviewing from time to time. As the technology, software, and your knowledge change, you will probably find that your workflow also changes.

About a year and a half ago, I posted an article that summarized my workflow. Looking back it, there are a few things that I have changed. In this post, I will describe the current steps I generally do. To see that article, CLICK HERE.

In this post, I describe what the basic steps are after I have uploaded my images to Photoshop Elements 14.

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Here is my current workflow that uses both the PSE 14 Organizer and its Photo Editor, with Photoshop CC added to the mix when needed. The description begins as soon as I have imported photos and videos into the PSE 14 Organizer.

  1. The first thing I do is tag my photos. If the subject matter is pretty fixed, this step takes only seconds.
    1. For example, on a typical weekend of watching my granddaughters’ softball and soccer games, I may find that come Sunday evening I have 500 images and several videos on my memory card. I already have the tag structure and tags defined. It’s just a matter of selecting the right images and dragging them over to the appropriate tags.
    2. If the input batch is from a trip or similar event or photo shoot, I will at least tag the images at the Category level, and then come back later to sub-divide them into Sub-Categories, and Keyword Tags.
  2. I use Events, Places, and to a much lesser extent People views – the tabs at the top of the screen.

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3. I next screen the images using the Full Screen View option (F11) in the Organizer.

I skip over any videos I have imported at this point.To cull out the best photos I use the Organizer’s Star Rating feature using:

1 = Delete

2 = Needs work, or is member of a burst, HDR, or panorama sequence.

3 = These will most likely be included into an Album for a slide show, or DVD I plan to make at some point. They may not always be the best photos in the world from a technical standpoint, but are needed to better tell the story. I will also give the best photo of a sequence 3 stars.

4 = These are pretty good for me, and probably are the ones that I will most likely end up printing.

5 = Rarely awarded at this stage

After Step 3, I still have many images that have not been rated. They will remain in my Catalog.

4. I now screen the video clips that were uploaded in the grid view. I double-click on the video file and play the video in the enlarged window that appears, rather than in the full screen mode.

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5. If I am interested in the location where the photos were taken, I will then use Places view to pin point on the map the photos and videos were taken.

My current camera can embed the GPS data into the image files, so while taking the photos I turn this feature on for at least a couple of shots. I do not leave it on all of the time, because it drains the battery significantly.

If I forget to do it, I will take a couple of shots with my iPhone, and use these photos to identify the location using Places.

If need be, like when I have shot only video, I will manually add the location of the photos using the Places view.

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6. At this point, I have finished the vast majority of my keyword tagging of my images. I then write the Keyword Tags and other metadata to the image files – File > Save Metadata to Files. If you do not do this, only those images that have been at least opened in the Editor will have the tagging and other metadata written to the file itself.

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7. I then delete all of the 1 star images/videos from the Catalog, as well as the hard drive.

8. Next comes editing those photos and videos that are either in a sequence (2 Stars) and those that have 3 or 4 Stars.

Since I shoot RAW, I will naturally do my initial editing using the ACR.

Normally, that is all the editing I need to do. I fact, that is my goal, for individual photos.

If I can do that, I do not need to save an edited version. My changes are recorded in a small .xmp file.

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9. To print the photo or make editing changes requiring, for example selections or layers, I will open the image in Elements’ Photo Editor.

Occasionally, I will send the RAW image directly to Photoshop CC’s ACR to take advantage of its added tools and/or Photoshop CC itself. However, this will require that a dupe (actually a Version Set) of the RAW file to be generated, which will take up additional disk drive space.

10. The final step of my basic workflow is to periodically do either a Full Backup or Incremental Backup of my Catalog and all of the media it contains (File > Backup Catalog).

This pretty much summarizes my basic workflow. Generally, after Step 9, I put together my photo projects, whatever they may be.

I would love to hear your thoughts and workflow steps that you use or in PSE or other programs.

How to Change an Edited RAW Image Back to Its Original Settings


One of the great advantages of shooting RAW images is that you can always return an edited image to how it was captured by your camera after you have edited it. In this quick video tip, we’ll demonstrate how to do that using the Adobe Camera RAW (ACR) editor in Photoshop Elements 14.

However, the steps are the same in earlier versions of Elements, as well as in Photoshop CC.

YouTube Title

 

 

Lightroom CC Released


Yesterday Adobe released the latest version of Lightroom, called Lightroom CC for the subscription version or Lightroom 6 for the boxed version. Click on the image below to read about the new features.

LR6 Box

I will being exploring the new features and sharing  my thoughts in upcoming posts.

I also noticed that my Photoshop Elements 13 was automatically updated to the newest version of Adobe Camera RAW, ACR 9. However I did not see any differences, no new tools etc.

If you are a Lightroom user, let me know in the comments below what you think about its new capabilities.

My Photo Workflow Continues to Evolve


 

Your post production workflow – the steps you take after uploading your photos to your computer – is always a topic that is worth reviewing from time to time. As the technology, software,  and your knowledge change, you will probably find that your workflow also evolves.

A few weeks ago, I posted an article that described how and why I retired from active service the Photoshop Elements Catalog I have been using for well over ten ears. To se that article, CLICK HERE. In this post, I describe what the basic steps are after I have uploaded my images to Photoshop Elements 13. Yes, I still use PSE 13 for managing my 50K images. Since I teach beginning Lightroom classes, I have been exploring it more thoroughly as of late. In fact I even “upgraded” (Adobe’s term, not mine) my prime photos catalog to LR5. I have a few initial thoughts on the success of this, but that is the subject of another article.

PSE 13 Welcome

Here is my current workflow that uses both the PSE 13 Organizer and its Photo Editor, with Photoshop CC added to the mix when needed. The description begins as soon as the photos and videos have been imported to the PSE 13 Organizer.

1. The first thing I do is tag my photos. If the subject matter is pretty fixed, this step takes only seconds. For example, on a typical weekend of watching my granddaughters’ softball and soccer games, I may find that come Sunday evening I have 500 images and several videos on my memory card. I already have the tag structure and tags defined. It’s just a matter of selecting the right images and dragging them over to the appropriate tags.
A. If the input batch is from a trip or similar event or photo shoot, I will at least tag the images at the Category level,
and then come back later to sub-divide them into Sub-Categories, and Keyword Tags.

B. Since PSE 11, I have made use of the Events, People, and to a lesser extent Places tags.

Org Grid

2. I next screen the images using the Full Screen View option (F11) in the Organizer. I will also make use of the side-by-side display option (F12) as needed.
A. I skip over any videos I have imported at this point
B. To cull out the best photos I use the Organizer’s Star Rating feature:

1 = Delete

2 = Needs work, provides a good class example, or is member of a burst, HDR, or panorama sequence.

3 = Will most likely be included in a slide show, or DVD I plan to make at some point. Often these are not the best photos in the world from a technical standpoint, but are needed to better tell the story. I will also give the best photo of a sequence 3 stars.

4 = These are pretty good for me, and probably are the ones that I will most likely end up printing.

5 = Hardly ever awarded at this stage

After Step 2, I still have many images that have not been rated. They will remain in my Catalog.

3. I now screen the video clips that were uploaded in the grid view. I double-click on the video file and play the video in the enlarged window that appears, rather than in the full screen mode.

PSE Video Preview

4. More recently, if I have essentially completed the keyword tagging of my images, I will write them and other metadata to the image files – File > Save Metadata to Files. If I do not do this, only those images that I have at least opened in the Editor will have the tagging and other metadata written to the file itself.

5. I then delete all of the 1 star images/videos from the Catalog, as well as the hard drive. Typically from a weekend of shooting soccer and softball games, I’ll end up with in the order of a couple of hundred images. This is far too many, and I’m working on raising my standards. The percentage of keepers is roughly the same when the images are of general subjects, such as scenery.

6. Next comes editing those photos and videos that are either in a sequence (2 Stars) and those that have 3 or 4 Stars.
A. Since I almost Always shoot RAW, I will naturally do my initial editing using the ACR.
B. Normally, that is all the editing I need to do. I fact, that is my goal, for individual photos.
C. If I can do that, I do not need to save an edited version. My changes are recorded in a small .xmp file.

7. To print the photo or make editing changes requiring, for example selections or layers, I will open the image in Elements’ Photo Editor.

Alternately, I will on occasion, send the RAW image directly to Photoshop’s ACR to take advantage of its added tools and/or Photoshop itself. However, this will require that a dupe (actually a Version Set) of the RAW file to be generated, which will take up additional disk drive space.

8. The final step of my basic workflow is to periodically do either a Full Backup or Incremental Backup of my Catalog and all of the media it contains (File > Backup Catalog).

This pretty much summarizes my basic workflow. Somewhere between Steps 7 and 8, I put together my photo projects, whatever they may be.

I would love to hear your thoughts and workflow steps that you use or in PSE or other programs.

Convert Lightroom Presets to ACR Presets


As part of the recent Lightroom class I recently taught, we covered using the Develop module presets that came with Lightroom 5, and couple of the hundreds of Lightroom presets that are available online, many for free. I have found several that I like to use, at least for starting points for my own photo editing.

However, I use Photoshop and Photoshop Elements more than Lightroom, so I would like to easily convert a Lightroom preset into an Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) preset that I could use in Photoshop. In a video from www.photoshopcafe.com, Colin Smith describes how to do this. Here are the basic steps.

  • Open a photo in the Lightroom Develop module.
  • Apply the desired preset.

Convert 1

  • Open the image in Photoshop as a Smart Object, via Photo > Edit In > Open as a Smart Object in Photoshop.
  • In Photoshop, double click on the Smart Object icon in the Layers pallet.

convert 2

This opens the photo in the ACR, where you can see the positions of the sliders that were applied in the preset.

Convert 3

  •  Now click on the small parallel lines icon to the right of Basic in the ACR, and select Save Settings.

Convert 4

  1. Name the preset setting as desired.

Convert 5

  • Now when you open an image in ACR that you would like to apply the preset to, click on the Presets icon, and select that preset to apply it.

Convert 6

The preset effect will vary from photo to photo, but at least it gets you in the ball park for the look you wanted. You can tweak the sliders from that point. True, you need both Lightroom and Photoshop to do the above, so why would you bother with the conversion? Personally, I like using ACR better than the Develop module of Lightroom for most things.

Maybe you do too? Let me know what you think of this technique, Ok?